The three climbers have hundreds of new routes at the Wyoming location and know more about the area than most. To sign the letter visit the original post here.
Ten Sleep Brewing Company
TenSleepCanyon is getting chipped, drilled, and glued to death. Reports from locals are of entire crags put up over the past 3 seasons with heavy fabrication.
We want it to stop! We think that the routes should be removed from the walls and guidebooks. To learn more please read our full open letter by clicking the link in our header. Or go to: bit. In , it was discovered that a climber named Louie Anderson, a Californian who recently moved to Ten Sleep and turned a ranch into a campground called Rock Ranch, had been doing most of the chipping.
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This is a philosophy we find unacceptable using methods that I fear are jeopardizing our relationship with the US Forest Service granting us access to climb. These practices must stop.
Climbers from other areas he has done this to in the past have provided comments that help show that this is a recurring theme:. This in not new news, just a new climb that has been robbed for all future and stronger climbers to get the FA. The sad thing is he has a cult like following with the younger climbers so they think this is acceptable to chip or glue lines that are over there climbing grade.
Attached to this letter we would like to offer additional evidence that Louie Anderson, has shattered and disregarded the very clear ethical code of route development and has damaged the canyon in a way that must be used as an example to stop further actions. We cannot let this happen to Ten Sleep. We regret not bringing these issues to your attention sooner, but have been torn on how to bring them forward until we understood the severity and had definitive proof.
Over the past months we have received pleas from a number of Wyoming climbers, often accompanied by photos of glue covered holds and what appear to be drilled pockets and chiseled features. Some of those images are attached to this post.
The $25 Punk Rock…Climbing Guide to Ten Sleep Canyon Available June 15!
A great deal of damage has been done in the canyon over the past 3 seasons and its extent is only now becoming clear to us. For the first time in Ten Sleep Canyon history nearly fully manufactured routes using what appears to be drill bits, chisels, and large amounts of glue are being openly created and widely promoted.
We believe such actions degrade the climbing resource, eliminate challenges for future generations of climbers, and threaten access. It is our position that any manufacturing of holds in Ten Sleep Canyon is an unacceptable practice that is counter to the consensus, culture, and norms around ethical route development in the climbing community.
The ethic that has been followed since modern sport climbing was brought to Ten Sleep Canyon was to do the minimal amount of work to make the route climbable.
Ten Sleep, Wyoming
The idea has always been to discover and equip the route that geological time has delivered us instead of creating movements on an open palate of blank malleable stone. Our canyon is full of beautiful natural lines, and when those run out we need to stop bolting it.
THIS GUIDEBOOK WILL NOT BE SOLD IN STORES OUTSIDE TEN SLEEP!
When will enough be enough? How in the world did a new 5. Aggressive hammering and glue is the answer. How did an entire new crag of 11s, and 12s go up on a wall we have walked and rappelled dozens of times, and then passed by because the natural lines would have been 13s and 14s or no routes at all?
Go to Ten Sleep, Wyoming. Right. Now.
Are they not robbing from the future, when someone may have been able to climb that natural 13 or 14? With this new slide in ethics all conceivable walls could now be grid bolted and chiseled into submission. This leaves us scratching our heads and wondering if sport climbing ethics have shifted radically from under our noses.
Is this acceptable and allowable in the modern era? What will young climbers think? Will they even care?
What will land managers think? What also concerns us is that the ones currently doing the most unethical behavior so openly, are also encouraging other young climbers, who now think that this is how bolting is done.
Are new bolters going to think that this is the way a crag is developed: by brute force? The canyon has more developers visiting every year now, with reports of over 30 bolters in the canyon last summer. We know that not every one of them utilizes the tactics that we are highlighting here and that it is really only a few developers who are involved to this degree, but our hearts grow heavy thinking these tactics becoming common practice and acceptable in the years to come.
We wonder what the bolters are thinking.
Food and Supplies in Ten Sleep
What are their motives? Since last summer we, and others, have addressed these actions directly with these bolters.
Our conversations with these folks have caused a whole array of reactions: unabashed acknowledgement, defensive name-pointing, erroneous normalization or deceitful denial. This statement is to make it clear that it is not normal and not accepted and it will not be hidden anymore. We ask now, that these crags of manufactured routes be removed from the walls and from guidebooks, to stop the encouragement and normalization of these practices.
Visit here. Photo by jonathansiegrist.