- Kz 1100 turbo manual chain
- Kawasaki KZ1100 Service Manual
- APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Kawasaki KZ1000J-GPz1100
- Manual Cam Chain Tensioner - Install and Adjustment
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- 1100 manual chain tensioner installation
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Kz 1100 turbo manual chain
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation. The stock tensioner on my KZ is the old manual type. To adjust it you position the crankshaft at a certain position, loosen the tensioner bolt, and the spring in the tensioner adjusts the tension. You then tighten the tensioner bolt and lock nut, and at that point it is impossible for the tensioner rod to move in any direction.
Kawasaki KZ1100 Service Manual
Too easy to overtighten. When I install one I do factory adjustment then take the bolt out and use a long skinny screwdriver to push on the plunger and give it just enough of a tap to get one more click. Welcome, Guest. Username: Password: Remember me.
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I know everybody likes the manual tensioner, but is it necessary on a street build? Personally I thought the J engine automatic tensioner was a great idea. And I know a guy who worked on Police bikes breaking k miles and never saw a problem.
The theory is that OEM may possibly backup during extreme deceleration conditions possibly jumping time. But is that realistic on a street build, or just an all-out race engine? Last edit: by VTEC. Very early on my bike jumped time when mostly stock. A manual cam chain tensioner is not nessasary but they do work well.
APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Kawasaki KZ1000J-GPz1100
I run one now on my turbo build and the system is bullet proof Dave. Frame by Chuck Kurzawa Logghe Chassis. Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn. The earlier KZs used a different style tensioner, which I think is even better than manual.
Manual Cam Chain Tensioner - Install and Adjustment
You loosen the lock bolt and spring tension adjusts the chain tension. Once you re-lock the bolt there's no chance of it backing up. But it still requires periodic adjustment. If yours jumped time due to the tensioner, I would imagine it was from lack of periodic adjustment, or the tensioner pre-load spring was no good when you adjusted it last.
It's just with the manual tensioner there's no accurate adjustment. But I read about so many folks adjusting by instructions, too loose, and they have to kill the rattle by adjustment running.
And with my carb setup, there's no way of adjusting it running. The following user s said Thank You: Nessism. I have the old style adjuster. The ramp got worn so it would loosen. I installed a bolt at the end to prevent that.
I had a aftermarket one but it was too hard to feel when it was tight. I ruined the center roller and guide. I went back to the old manual one. Z1b Z1b Opinions expressed by me do not reflect those of the the staff or members kzrider. I like and still use the old style manual cam chain tensioner on my KZ motors.
Never had a problem with them causing the cam timing to jump. Hell, I used to shut the throttle at 10,RPM all the time on my KZ, and never had a problem with it jumping cam timing. The best way I found to adjust them was when I did my valve clearance check.
With the spark plugs out, I would release the locking bolt, listen for the little click sound if the tensioner arm moved forward, then I would tighten the locking bolt.
Then I would turn the motor over with the kick starter, and then grab the cam chain by the top tensioner and see if there was any slack part in the chain. I always run the cam chain through its whole length looking for any slack. If there was a loose spot, I would try to put it by the tensioner, and loosen the locking bolt again, and lock it again.
Then I would turn the motor over, and make sure I could not find a loose spot in the cam chain. I don't care what the shop manual tells you how to adjust the cam chain, but thats the way I have done it since back in !!!
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Up in the hills near Prescott, Az. Last edit: by Dr. Last edit: by ed. Ed Yep, that was a great tensioner.
Kawasaki KZ1000 Manuals
The only issue would be a worn or broken spring not giving you the correct tension. And if you notice there are high and low spots on the chain.
Has anyone ever heard of a J motor automatic tensioner failing and jumping time? I know it's bullet proof on a stock engine.
KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum
The only relative difference on mine is I got an OEM tensioner with the angled sliders, and I don't see how the hell this thing could possibly back up from extra chain force on decel? But I'm always a little paranoid, and will go this route. I'm gonna drill out the back of the housing where the main slider rides.
Tap it and install a bolt and lock nut. This way the automatic tensioner functions as as designed by Kawasaki, and the bolt is a failsafe preventing the slider from backing up enough to jump time under any condition.
1100 manual chain tensioner installation
That's what I did. No problems.
For the time it takes to mod a stock one I'd just get the APE one. Wiseco cc kit. Zukiworks racing ported head. VM 29 smooth bore's. Dyna Ign. APE valve spring's. APE Track King clutch.
Last edit: by zukdave. I don't trust the APE ones anymore. Steve Then your not doing it right. I've got them in two motor's now and will be putting one in the connie motor in a few weeks. Kawasaki engineers designed the tensioner to have continuous spring tension against the rear chain guide. A manual tensioner does not do that. By Dr. Gamma, when you say you pull it by the tensioner, do you mean pull the rear tensioner?
Next question: since his bike has a Hy-Vo cam chain w slipper guides, Is that method going to work on his 82 K2? I'm a big fan of APE products and always planned on there adj tensioner but was afraid of getting it too tight will admit I wouldn't be doing it right if that happened.
So I just bought a new spring and still use the stock one The trouble was the O ring would get stuck in the threads. The spring puts the proper tension on the chain roller and I can hear the difference with my Liska cam train rollers. Been looking around at the smaller four automatic adjusters after I got the A very good system.
One the problems with the stock one's is as the chain and guide's wear the spring pushes it out almost to the next click when turning it over by hand but when running it's a little loose and the plunger pulse's in and out that's what causes them to back off. That may be a valid point on the older KZ tensioners which were not automatic. The J engine automatic tensioners also adjust while running.
It's like a one-way check valve that extends the push rod outward to maintain the correct spring tension on the chain, but cannot back up. The older tensioners require the set bolt to be loosened periodically to adjust for chain and guide wear, just like a manual chain tensioner.
But the advantage of the older OEM tensioners is that it still uses the spring tension to adjust, and the lock bolt prevents any chance of backup on decel. I don't understand why someone would replace that with a manual tensioner, which the only advantage is it can't backup on decel?
And like SWest pointed out, get a new spring! Im running with a hd cam chain. The part number is , so use that for your search. Here's where I found the part number: www.
The following user s said Thank You: 9er rider.