- Southern Welding Systems International LLC
Forum Rules. Register Help. Remember Me? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Join Date Apr Posts I got it wired up and running but it doesn't seem to stick weld that well and I haven't even tried to tig with it yet. I think my problem is in the rheostat as I have to crank it all the way up to get it to weld at all with the lower lever control all the way to the right at the maximum setting. Anywhere else it will just make a weak spark at the electrode and never create a true arc.
I'm guessing that the rheostat is either worn out or just needs to be cleaned, but before I tear into it to do this I want to make sure my settings are right on the welder.
Miller welder 330 a/bp manually connect
Does anybody know where all the bells whistles and gizmos should be set on this welder for stick welding? Oh yeah I have it wired to vac and I've already double checked it to make sure the bus bars are in the right position. Reply With Quote.
If that is the case, sometimes the contacts in the range switch can get crapped up. With the machine off, just go wild sliding the lever back and forth through all it's ranges a few times, then make sure it is properly seated in the range you want to use and see if that does anything.
Sometimes that will scrape the gunk off the contacts. If not, you might need to go inside and manually clean the contacts. Just make sure the input power is off before you open it up. Unplugging is preferred. Let us know if this works! Thinking I'm going to have to move this heavy beast back outside where I can get to it.
I've got it under a lean-to by my shed and it has an aluminum cover over it that I can't get off without getting it out of there. Join Date Aug Posts 4, If you lost interest and part it out, PM me since I feed on the dead, but there isn't much to fail on them. I would unplug before working on it! If the rheostat won't play, you could carefully make a jumper to replace it for testing.
Miller 330A/BP Tig/Stick Welder 1 Phase
That would run at max for a given range and you wouldn't have to buy any parts to troubleshoot. If it's not then stick welding is not an option because it is set up for tig.. Connect the two and have at it.. I am not completely insane.. Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course Do not attempt. Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.
Meant to put that in the original post.
setting up a miller 320 a/bp
What about the top knife switch where you switch from ac to the two different types of dc polarity. The power cord which I plug into this is the original and appears to be 10 wire at best and is about 4 ft long. The power to my shop comes from my house via a 60 amp breaker at the main panel with 6 wire about 80 ft long. So this might indeed be my problem. How do I check the output at the disconnect. I have a multi meter and have access to just about anything else to check the power from work.
What else should I do to the wiring?
Is a total rework needed? I was trying to use what I already had wired up to my shop.
Re: setting up a miller 320 a/bp
Still a little confused. If anyone wants to look at it and tell me which figure I need to look at to get the proper wire size and amp load requirements. The way I'm reading it now I think I need to run 4 wire with a fuse rated for amps. If that's correct I guess I need to back up and punt. Probably will wait until I build my new shop to get this welder online and working.
Good thing I didn't burn the place down. The power at the crow foot receptacle that I installed earlier is volts on each leg and is wired properly with 6 wire.
The supply cable coming out of the machine is indeed 10 wire and is not original to the machine as I thought earlier. This wiring has been removed and I will install a new cord made out of 6 wire and let her rip again. Hopefully this will make the welder work properly.
I'll keep you updated. Thanks for the help 7A If the rheostat won't move. You may need a few drops of oil on the shaft that runs through the switch. The manual says for stick welding the lever should be in the up position and down for tig.
Anybody got any thoughts. I'm going to check this out also when I get a chance. I've got the wire cut and the plug end connected to it. Now i just have to put some lugs on the other end and hook it back up.
This might be a dumb question but the negative cable should be hooked up to the lug labeled work and the electrode holder should be hooked up to the lug labeled electrode, right? I hope to have the machine back up by Fri. I've got to work a shutdown tomorrow at work which will keep me from working on it,. By the way those are some super clean machines you've got there. Tried it again and I'm still getting the same results. The machine seems to work best when in its highest setting with the rheostat cranked all the way up and in DC reverse polarity which should be wrong for stick welding.
When in DC straight polarity the welder will work but weld is very porous and does not burn in at all. Again I am trying to stick weld. I have the ground clamp run to the lug labeled "work" on the machine and the electrode is run to the lug labeled "electrode" on the machine.
What do I need to look at next? How do you go about checking the rheostat?
My multimeter is capable of checking diodes. So are you saying that for stick welding the knife switch is in the proper position when it is in DC reverse? I actually haven't been able to do anything with it the last few days. It has an aluminum cover over it that I cannot remove while the welder is in its current position. I'm having it moved this afternoon by a friend with a forklift so that I can remove the extra cover and get at the welder itself.
Attached Images. The second is of what I think is the diode. This machine has four of them.
What is the proper way to check them and can it be done in place. The third pic is of the main rheostat for the welder. It looks like it has three wires coming out of it. How do i check it to see if it is functioning correctly.
Can't beat the price. The diodes are fricken huge too compared too the ranger 8 and Miller Dialarc I just worked on. I haven't had a chance to use mine yet other than just getting it working Lincoln Wirematic According to my multimeter book any value between.
I got. Still need help on checking the rheostat. Maybe this is your issue if it only works on High Range. Join Date Apr Location minnesota Posts 1, Is this a three phase welder or single phase.
Three phase wont run on single phase power. Millermatic millermatic miller Thunderbolt lincoln ranger smith torches lots of bfh's If it dont fit get a bigger hammer.
I'm using a crow foot style dryer plug for the connection rated for v 50amps and vac is the measured line voltage that is running to the machine. Actually the machine can be set up to run on , , or volts single phase by changing the jumper settings. I've got mine jumpered to the volt setting.